Mapping the Face - The Cheeks

Face Mapping is a revolutionary approach to skin analysis developed by the International Dermal Institute exclusively for Dermalogica. It provides an in depth understanding of the external and internal factors that influence the health of your skin and assures that your subsequent skin treatment and home-care prescription will fully address all of your concerns.

In March I discussed Zones 6 & 8 - the Eyes. And in each subsequent newsletter I will choose a different zone to talk about. I hope you find this information helpful - I LOVE sharing my knowledge and the exciting Dermalogica Skin Care system with you!

Zones 5 & 9 - the Cheeks

Whether you have a "peaches and cream" complexion that blushes at the slightest provocation or you experience splotchy pigmentation, or breakouts and blackheads, the cheeks provide a lot of information about skin health.

PROBLEM: Redness

The cheeks occasionally offer a glimpse into the lungs. Smokers, people living with smokers, or people suffering from allergies, sinus problems, or asthma generally experience fine, broken capillaries or congestion in the cheek area. Similarly, the cheeks may become flushed with a cold or flu. But redness in the cheeks doesn't always reflect respiratory problems. Couperose is another term for redness caused by tiny blood vessels called capillaries that expand and dilate in response to various triggers. It may also be an indicator that your skin has become sensitized by harsh products or aggressive skin care habits.

CAUSE:

Redness can be triggered by alcohol, cigarettes, pollution, stress, medication, medical conditions (high blood pressure), and hormonal changes (hot flashes for example). As a skin therapist I often treat irritation and inflammation along with accompanying redness, dryness and sensitivity brought on by sun exposure, extreme temperatures (hot or cold), irritants in skin care products or cosmetics, and over exfoliation.

SOLUTION:

If your skin has become sensitized from harsh treatment, switch to products that soothe and calm the skin and help restore the skin's protective lipid barrier. All Dermalogica products are designed to promote skin health but some products are formulated specifically to heal damaged skin.

Gentle cleansing followed by enzyme microfoliation smooths and softens your skin without irritation. Dermalogica's Daily Microfoliant is a rice based enzyme powder that is safe for all skin types. Another great product to consider is Dermalogica's Gentle Soothing Booster, a potent serum with raspberry, honey, calendula, chamomile and cornflower to instantly reduce irritation and calm sensitive skin. Soothing Protection Spray is an ultra-calming spray that helps create a protective shield against environmental assaults that can lead to irritation and redness. And Barrier Repair, with soothing evening primrose, shea butter, vitamin C, and silicones strengthens the skin's natural lipid barrier.

Avoid water temperature extremes when cleansing your face; lukewarm is best. And stay away from artificial colors and fragrances in cosmetics. If you flush or blush easily, you might also choose to limit coffee, alcohol, chocolate, spicy foods, and hot tubs or saunas.

Chronic UV damage from unprotected daylight exposure may cause capillary dilation, so a sun block should be worn daily, even on cloudy days. Dermalogica's broad spectrum sun blocks contain their unique "Smart Booster Technology". Micro-encapsulated beads release antioxidant Vitamins C & E when exposed to sunshine to help further prevent free radical damage. Try Dermalogica's Ultra Sensitive Sun Block or Super Sensitive Sun Block which contain titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide ("chemical free" minerals that block UV rays from reaching the skin).

Over exfoliation from improper use of home microdermabrasion kits, apricot kernel scrubs, and other harsh abrasives can create micro-tearing of the skin leading to inflammation, a major cause of premature aging! Consult your skin therapist for the safest and most effective way to exfoliate your skin.

PROBLEM: Rosacea

Persistent redness or flushing that does not disappear may be an indicator of Rosacea, a chronic neurovascular disorder that can affect the cheeks, nose, and chin, and in severe cases, they eyes.

CAUSE:

To date the cause is still unknown, but Rosacea can be treated and managed with medications and lifestyle changes. For more information about Rosacea, visit the National Rosacea Society website. And if you have a family history, or believe you may have Rosacea, consult a dermatologist or other qualified doctor for diagnosis and appropriate treatment.

SOLUTION:

Caring for skin with Rosacea is much the same as caring for couperose or sensitized skin. (see above)

PROBLEM: Pigmentation

Take a look at the left side of your face. Do you notice more aging as opposed to the right side? That's your driving side and it is often one of the first places to show signs of photo aging (premature aging caused by UV damage). Brown spots, known as hyperpigmentation, may be old sun damage coming to the fore. Other common areas that develop pigmentation are the throat and upper chest. Do you spray perfume on your neck before leaving the house? Artificial fragrances are photo-sensitive and when they react with sunlight, guess what happens...pigmentation!

Hyperpigmentation is almost always a result of inflammation. Tanning is actually an inflammatory response...it is your skin's way of protecting itself from the sun. Unfortunately, tanning - not just burning- of the skin, is a major contributor to premature aging, as much as 85 to 95%!

Hormonal imbalance (pregnancy, oral contraception) is another common trigger, as is trauma to the skin (like the scarring that develops after picking acne lesions).

CAUSE:

Sun exposure, tanning beds, inflammation, stress, hormonal imbalances (melasma or "mask of pregnancy"), harsh exfoliants, and photo-sensitivity from medications, drugs, or fragrances.

SOLUTION:

Until recently the most effective treatment for hyperpigmentation has been hydroquinone, a skin lightening agent now shown to be carcinogenic, mutagenic, and banned in many countries (except the US!) The good news is that safe new alternatives are available, and the International Dermal Institute is leading the charge with their use of Oligopeptides, vitamin C (magnesium ascorbyl phosphate), and botanical skin brighteners that slow the process of melanogenisis (pigment formation), evening out skin tone and reducing age spots caused by inflammation & UV damage.

Sun damage is the easiest to correct and prevent, however consistency is the key. It takes 4 to 12 weeks of use with a comprehensive targeted system like Dermalogica's ChromaWhiteTRx to see improvement, and sunscreen must be worn every day to prevent a re-occurrence.

Hormonal pigmentation is unfortunately harder to control, and until hormones balance out, pigmentation may not disappear even with diligent product usage.

PROBLEM: Blackheads and Breakouts

Acne results when there is an over-proliferation of sebum (oils) combined with slow sloughing of dead skin cells. The consequence is clogged follicles that provide a perfect breeding ground for acne-causing bacteria.

But if you are only dealing with mild blackheads and the occasional breakout, the solution may be as simple as changing a few products and habits.

CAUSE:

Comedogenic cosmetic ingredients, hormonal imbalance, smoking, pollution, poor telephone hygiene

SOLUTION:

Some makeup and skin care products contain comedogenic ingredients - which means they clog the pores. Artificial dyes in some foundations, blushers, and self tanning products, are comedogenic so look for natural mineral pigments, like iron oxides, instead. Dermalogica's Treatment Foundation provides flawless coverage while moisturizing and protecting skin. It contains vitamins A & E, and natural mineral (iron oxide) pigments.

The Clarisonic Mia is a great cleansing tool that is safe great for all skin types, and is now available at Mirabella! It gently removes makeup and clears the pores much more effectively than manual cleansing alone. It improves product penetration and can be used with your Dermalogica cleanser or Daily Microfoliant for a smoother, clearer complexion without irritation.

How often do you change your pillow case? Everything you put on your hair and face winds up there, so change it often and avoid using harsh laundry products, including dryer sheets, since the residues will be transferred to your skin.

Observe some other common habits - do you rest your face on your hand, or shoulder your phone so it rests on your face? These habits may result in sporadic breakouts in the lower area of the cheeks.

A cluster of unexplained breakouts may follow gum or tooth problems or extensive dental work.

If you have Adult Acne consider Dermalogica's MediBac Clearing system. But for occasional breakout, Dermalogica's Special Clearing Booster or Concealing Spot Treatment may be all you need.

PROBLEM: Dehydration

Dehydration and dryness are often confused. Dehydration is a condition of the skin while dry skin relates to the amount of oil your skin naturally produces. Skin that is flaky and lacking in moisture is dehydrated and this condition can occur even in oily skin types. Try this test: make a "kissy face." If fine lines appear around your nose, eyes, and lips, your skin may be dehydrated.

CAUSE:

Incorrect product use, diet, environment, sun, alcohol consumption, smoking, SD alcohol in skin care products, soap.

SOLUTION:

Dehydration in the skin may indicate the natural protective (lipid) barrier has been damaged, so that the skin can no longer hang onto moisture. This is a condition known as transepidermal water loss (or TEWL) and may not necessarily be related to the amount of water you drink.

Soaps are alkaline strip the skin of its natural protection, predisposing it to dehydration. We are told over and over again that exfoliation is essential to a glowing complexion but all too often we end up over-exfoliating our skin, stripping and damaging it instead.

Exfoliating properly will help your skin take in and hold on to moisture, and your skin therapist can prescribe the right type and frequency for your unique skin.

Caffeine and alcohol are diuretics which can dehydrate the entire body, so be sure to drink plenty of water to counteract the effect.

Low fat diets can deprive our bodies of skin-friendly Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs). EFAs are critical to all parts of a healthy functioning body, including keeping skin supple and hydrated. An EFA deficiency can result in chronic itching, dryness, scaling, inflammation, and thinning of the skin.

All Dermalogica products treat dehydration but if your skin needs extra help, consider adding Dermalogica's Skin Hydrating Booster and Skin Hydrating Masque to your home care regimen.

Did You Know...?

Smoking depletes Vitamin C in the body and restricts oxygen to the skin. It impairs healing, and also causes a yellow, sallow appearance. And it may cause comedones (blackheads) and wrinkles to form.

If you are on a highly restricted diet or are fasting, breakouts can occur as part of the detoxification process. Long-term fasting can stimulate breakout activity, hormonal imbalance, and body hair growth.

Drinking adequate water daily is vital for a healthy body. Many skin conditions can be improved with increased water intake.

Consumption of more than 8 alcoholic beverages per week can contribute to skin dryness and bodily dehydration.

Dental x-rays shrink the sebaceous (oil producing glands) for up to 1 month